Ultraviolet. As mentioned in this space before, I was going to have dinner at Paul Pairet’s new restaurant concept on June 9th. Well, its June 12, and yes, I had dinner there on June 9th.
So – where’s the review? Well, I’ve struggled with how to write this – because one of the coolest things about the meal was just how surprising and inventive many of the dishes were – and I don’t really want to spoil it for anyone going later. And I specifically used the word spoil, because in my mind, the entire dining experience was really theatrical. Like a movie, going in knowing where the surprises and shocks are can – well, they won’t ruin the meal for you, but they might make it less fun.
Instead of reviewing course by course or even showing photos – I’ll just talk a little bit about my experience – and really what does it mean when I say the meal was theatrical. I’ll just talk about a few of my favorite courses. Starting with the second course entitled “Foie Gras – Can’t Quit” we were served an ashtray with candied cigarillo made from red fruit, filled with a foie gras tobacco filling and cabbage ash for dipping. Paired with this was a light sherry for the alcohol drinkers – and what I appreciated was the thought and thoroughness of which Chef Pairet and his team put into the non-alcoholic beverages. And then the entire scene in the room changed to reflect the western motif, while Ennio Morricone’s spaghetti western theme music was broadcast through the state-of-the-art sound system while projections around the room played with your visual sense. If you want to take a look through my photos, they will help you to understand some of the fun that night, but my recommendation is to go in without knowing what is coming.
Some other favorites I’ll mention the Bread course – a Truffle Burnt Soup Bread, served with a buttery chardonnay – the dish itself was pure buttery goodness, but my drink pairing was shocking. Water, butter, tomato – and it sounds terrible, but it was a-m-a-z-i-n-g. Stephanie one of my fellow diners tried my drink and declared it be “just like the wine . .. but without the alcohol!” and then suggested to Fabian that she wanted to try the non-alcoholic pairings as well. The entire evening was filled noises of pleasure as my fellow diners and I continued to eat. I found myself really savoring and trying to taste every flavor in every bite as often times there were hidden flavors which would make themselves more apparent through the time of the bite.
Its not as detailed a review as I was thinking about writing previously, but this is what I think. It was absolutely worth the price – for me. I can’t answer if it’d be worth it for you. The food was special, the experience was amazing and I look forward to their introduction of Menu B.
– Terence, Table 09