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youusedtobealrightSkiptocontentHomeWhatthisherethingis←OlderpostsSomyborschtpiecePostedonDecember5,2018byterencepartsofwhicharebelow–Ire-wroteforGoldthreadhere.https://www.goldthread2.com/food/how-russian-borscht-became-hong-kong-staple/article/3000268I’mnowwritingsomeotherstuff!PostedinUncategorized|CommentsOffonSomyborschtpieceWhiteRussiansandSoupPostedonJanuary17,2017byterenceHireader–thanksforstoppingby–thisisahalfformedchapter–butIwantedtogetitdownjusttogetsomesortofaccomplishment.I’mactuallyheadingdowntoHongKonginacoupleofweekstodomoreresearch–thesortyoucan’tdofromShanghai–butIthoughtthisexplorationofhowafoodtransformsthroughit’sjourneyfromfarmersinUkrainetotheskyscrapersofHongKongwasfascinating.Obviouslywiththenotestomyselfandneedfordocumentation–thisisfarfromafinalform,butI’mjustspitballinghere.BorschtIfyouweretoendupaHongKongstyleWesternsteakplace,saylikeSammy’sKitcheninSheungWanorBostonRestaurantinWanchai,you’llbepresentedwithaselectionof“SetMenus,”withsomesortofsteak,cookedonasizzlingironplate,asoftdinnerrollandachoiceofsoup.Thosesoups,almostuniformlyaretwooptions:creamsoup,asortofwatery,cloudywhitesoupthattastesofalotofbutterandborschtor???inChinese,literally“RussianSoup”.Growingup,IneverthoughttoquestionwhyaUkrainianpeasantsoupwouldappearonmenushalfaworldaway.Eveninthepre-Globalizationworld,itwasoneofthosethingsthatjustwas.Itwasn’tuntilIreadMartinBooth’sexcellentmemoirGweilo/GoldenBoy(dependingonwhatmarketyoupurchase/readitin,it’sgotdifferenttitles)andhetalksaboutmeetingWhiteRussiansonthebus,andaboutRussianbakeriesinHongKongthatmycuriositywaspiqued,andIstartedtoputtwoandtwotogether.[InsertquotefromGoldenBoyherewherehetalksaboutTschanko’spastrieshere]photofromsusanbkason.comFollowingtheBolshevikRevolutioninRussia(1917),supportersoftheRussianTsarscatteredandescapedfirsttoVladivostokundertheprotectionoftheJapanese,andthenastheturmoilofthe20sand30sadvanced,theywouldmovefromVladivostokthroughNortheastChina/ManchuriaeventuallylandinginShanghai,whichatthetimewasafreeport,withnovisaoridentitypapersorpassportrequired.DuringthistimeinNortheastChinatherecipefortheheartysoupchangeddramatically.ForthosefamiliarwiththeoriginalUkrainiansoup–traditionallymadewithbeetsandcabbageinameatbrothwithadeepredcolorandservedwithsourcream.BeetsarenotcommoninShanghai,soasasubstitutionRussianchefsbegantouseavailableredcabbage,oxtailsandtomatoes.AsthewhiteRussianmigrationbegandownthecoasttheybegantore-establishlifeinShanghai,openingrestaurantsandbusinesses.Oddlyenough,inpresenttimes,PushkinSquare,nearbythecurrentlocationsoftheFrenchandUSconsulates,isoneofthecentersofexpatriatelifein2017,withacreperieandasportsbarshowingNFLandPremierLeaguegames.Asanaside,ItookatriptoRussiain2012,andoneofmyfriendswasobsessedwithfinding“authentic”borscht.AndwewenttorestaurantsalloverSt.PetersbergandMoscoworderingborscht,borschtandborscht.Itwasn’tuntilIwasonmywayoutofRussiathatIactuallywasabletohavethetraditionalbeetsandsourcreamversion.Alltheotherversionsofborschtweencounteredweresorrel,rye,orcabbagebased.Beingtheairport,theborschtwassadlymediocre.FollowingWorldWarII,whilestillreelingfromoccupationandatrocitiescommittedbytheJapanesearmy,ChinaplungedrightbackintocivilwarbetweentheNationalistsandtheCommunists,eventuallyresultingwiththeNationalistsescapingtoTaiwanandthefoundingofthePeople’sRepublicofChinain1949.Whilethiswasgoingon,HongKongbecameanaturalrefugeformanyinMainlandChinaduringthistime.PartsofmyownfamilymovedtoHongKongin1949,andinthepostCivilWarperiod,asmanyas20,000RussiansmadetheirwaytoandthroughHongKongaswell.[Notetoself,morein-depthresearchandsupportingmaterialformigrationofRussiansdown–aswellasfollowuponAppleDailyarticleregardingtherecipeswitchfrombeetstocabbage]BringingwiththemskillsandexperiencefromtherestaurantindustryinChina,andshunnedbythealreadyexistingexpatriatecommunityinHongKong,manyofthewhiteRussiansopenedbakeriesandrestaurants,asmentionedaboveinBooth’smemoirorthestillfamousQueen’sCafe&BakeryinCausewayBaytodayDuringthisera,existingWesternrestaurantswereoutofreachofallbutthewealthiestHongKongers,orforactualWesterners.EitherhotelrestaurantslikeGaddi’sinthePeninsulaHotelorstand-aloneplaceslikeJimmy’sKitchen–mostwereoutofthepricerangeofsolidlymiddleorworkingclassHongKong.HoweverasthesewhiteRussiansmovedintoandthroughHongKong,apeasantbased,modifiedforavailableingredientswaswellwithinthereachoftheworkingclass,andasthelifeandbusinessofrestaurantsevolvedinHongKong,ChinesestafffromtheseRussianfoundedeaterieswentoffandfoundedtheirownbusinessesandtook“RussianSoup”withthem.MimiThorissonwroteablogpostaboutthiseraofRussianfood:Ihavealwayslovedaborschtsoup,andhavefondmemoriesofgoingtoaveryunusualrestaurantinHongKongcalled‘Queen’scafé’.Itwastheveryoldonethatcloseddowndecadesago(therearenewonesnowbuttheatmosphereismodernandcompletelydifferent).Itwassmallanddark,thewaiterswereoldShanghainesemen,dressedinwhitejacketsandmatchinggloves.Theywereextremelygrumpy.Queen’scaféservedRussianfood,likeborschtsoup,potatosalads,marinatedchickenwings,nougatsanddeliciousbiscuitsyoucouldbuyatthedeli.Therewasanelementofold-schoolShanghai,influencedwithRussianculture.Ilovedit.[Note–needmorebackgroundaboutthiseraofHKrestaurants–historyofLouisSteakhouse,BostonRestaurant,Goldfinch–andRussianrestaurantpopulationinHKbeyondQueen’sBakery–startwiththispostaboutTkachenko’s]Postedinfood,hongkong|Taggedhistory,hongkong,Russians|CommentsOffonWhiteRussiansandSoupBorschtandBakedRicePostedonJanuary3,2017byterenceHey!It’sbeen2.5yearssinceI’vepostedanything.Lotsofstuffhasbeenhappening,butinsteadofanupdate,I’mgoingtopostsomewriting.Abookhasbeenkickingaroundinmyheadforalonglongtime,andIfinallydidsomethingaboutit.Thisisanunedited,firstdraft.ButIthoughtI’dputituphere.Letmeknowyourthoughts.WongKarWai’s2000filmIntheMoodForLoveisamasterclassinmoodsetting.Usingmutedcolors,halfheardconversationsoverphonestotellthestoryofneighborsMr.Chow(TonyLeung)andMrs.Chen(MaggieCheung)slowlycomingtorealizetheirrespectivespousesarehavinganaffairin1962HongKong.Firstdecidingtodiscusstheaffair,theyendupatSunKwongNamRestaurantandareshowneatingsteaks.Withpracticedease,Mr.ChowsupplementsMrs.Chen’ssteakwithaslightdollopofmustard.“Doyoulikeitspicy?,”heasks.OriginallyplannedtobeamovietitledAStoryofFood,thethemesofeatingoftenpopup.Theprotagonistscontinuetomeetovernoodles,oversesamesyrup,overstickyrice,butwhatmaystrikeviewersunfamiliarwithHongKongasunusual,wastheirinitialchoiceofsteak,ratherthansomethingtraditionallyChineseorCantonese.Thatinitialdiningscene,however,wasnotshotinSunKwongNam,butinHongKong’sCausewayBayneighborhoodinanenduringrestaurantnamed“Goldfinch.”Repletewiththeredleatherboothsandlargemenusofatimegoneby,restaurantslikeGoldfinchcontinuetoserveastyleofcuisineuniquelyHongKonginorigin.“Inthepast,thiswasoneoftheveryfewupmarketWesternrestaurantsaround.Itwasn’tsoeasytocomeinhere.Onlypeoplewithsomemoneycouldaffordto,”saidWongKin-wing,amanagerwhohasworkedatGoldfinchformorethan20years.Duringthepost-warera,restaurantsservingwhatwouldberecognizableas“Westernfood”werescarceandexpensive–however,influencesasdisparateasthePortuguese,Malaysians,WhiteRussiansandobviouslyBritishcolonialismcombinedtoproduceabrandofcuisineknownasSoySauceWesternorHongKongStyleWesternfood.InAnthonyBourdain’s2011visittoHongKongforhisTravelChannelshowTheLayoverhevisits???SingHeungYuen.TheoutdooreateryordaipaidonginCantoneseisfamousforit’stomatosoupbaseinstantnoodlesservedwithluncheonmeat,hotdogsorcubedpork.Bourdaintermedit“mutantWesterncuisine”orthesortoffoodthatadrunkcollegestudentwouldmakeat2inthemorning,andtheorizedthatthegenesisofthefoodwassimilartoKoreanfusion,fromWesternGIsstoppingthroughonR&RtripsduringtheKoreanorVietnamWar.WhileBourdainisrightaboutthedrunkcollegestudentpart,theoriginsofHongKong’sWesterncuisinearemoreinterestingandreflectHongKong’splaceasastopoverfortheworld’stravelersandpopulationmigrations.IgrewupinLosAngeles,myself.ButnotoneofthesuburbanChinatownseither,butratherthedeepsuburbs.MyChineseexperiencewasoneofweekendtripstoMontereyPark,Arcadia,SanGabrielfordimsum,andthenChinesesupermarkets.OneofthethingsIdidnotunderstandgrowingupwasthepresenceofstrangeWesternfoodatHongKongstylecafesaroundtheSanGabrielValley,withitemssuchasbakedporkchopriceandshrimptoast.Itwasn’tuntilImovedtoHongKongin1997thatIbegantoexploretheworldofSoySauceWesternCuisinebyeatingthelengthandbreadthofHongKong.WithrecentrestaurantclosingsofGoldfinchandLouisSteakhouse,andtheriseofactualWesternfood,andsophisticatedtastesinHongKong,whereHKersareabletoexperienceactualsteakhouses,ItalianfoodandRussiancuisine,versionsofthiscuisinemaybedyingaway,andthenostalgictasteofthe60sand70smaysoondisappearfromHongKongaltogether.Buttoexplorethis,wemustbeginatthebeginning,andthat’swithborscht.Postedinfood,hongkong|Taggedfood,history,hongkong|1CommentJapaneseSpringFestivalPostedonJuly2,2014byterenceWow,asalways,we’rereallycatchinguponoldnews.WaybackinFebruary,mycolleagueMikeandIdecidedtogotoJapanforsnowboarding.WhileIhadbeenmanytimes,thiswastobehisfirsttimetoJapan.Continuereading→Postedinfood,Travel|TaggedChineseNewYear,japan,snowboarding|CommentsOffonJapaneseSpringFestivalNightMarketing–RaoheStreetPostedonJune15,2014byterenceOnmylastnightoffreetime(I’dberemaininginTaipeiforanother4days,however,myworkschedulemadeitsoIwaseatingalotofhotelfoodandfoodcourtfoodfortherestofmytime.Sowithmylastnightoffreedom,IcalledupAbbieandwewenttoRaoheNightMarket.Ihadn’tbeentoRaohesincemyveryfirsttriptoTaiwan16yearsago.Iwasbetweenjobs,andagreedonaweekendvisittosomeoneIbarelyevenknew,andsheendedupbeingsicktheentireweekend.ArmedwithnotverygoodMandarin,Iexploredthecityonmyown.Ibarelyevenknewwhatnightmarketswerebackthen,butIremembereatingverywell.I’dpositthatTaipeihasthebeststreeteatsinalloftheEastAsianChineseworld.Continuereading→PostedinUncategorized|CommentsOffonNightMarketing–RaoheStreetTaipeiLivingPostedonJune14,2014byterenceSometimesinmylife,circumstancescollideandallowmetodosomethingreallyfunthings,eveniftheyareforwork.Overthelasttwoweeks,duetotheopeningofanewNikestoreinTaipeiandtheNikeTaipeiWomen’sHalfMarathon,Iwasprivilgedenoughtospend10daysinTaipei!Evenbetter,forthefirstfewdays,whennotworking,myco-workerandIhadsomefreetimethatonedoesn’tusuallyhaveonbusinesstrips.Infact,fromlookingatmysocialmedia,itlookedlikeallIhadwasfreetimetogoeat.Iassureyouthatwasn’tthecase–it’snotlikeIwastakingphotosofmesittinginthehotelwritingPowerPointpresentations.PeopleactuallylookedatthephotosthatmycolleagueTracyandIputuponInstagramandWeChatandthoughtweweren’tworking.Wewere,wejusthadfreetimeintheeveningtogoona#taipeifattour.Continuereading→Postedinfood,Travel|Taggedeating,nike,restaurants,taipei,taiwan,Travel,work|CommentsOffonTaipeiLivingTenya22inShanghaiPostedonJune9,2014byterenceWhenyouspeaktoWesternexpatriatesinShanghai,Ifeelasthereisoftentimesatried-and-truelistofplacestogotoeat.Brunch?Madison.SpanishTapas?ElWily.HighendItalian?Mercato.Ienjoyallofthoseplaces,butsometimesIthinkpeopledon’tventuretoofaroutsidethosesetplaces.ForexampleIthinkOttoEMezzo81/2Bombanaisoverlooked,andyeteverybitasgoodasMercato.Sameforhighendsushi,especiallyoftheomakasetype,wheretheconversationusuallyendsatSushiOyama.ButIthinkthere’sabetterplace,andformymoney,isoneofthebestmealstobehadinShanghai,andthat’satTenya22ontheBund.Fromthewellknownpurveyorsoftunasushi,Tenya(orTianjiatousetheChinese),Tenya22hasbeenopenforacoupleofyearsnowinasometimesemptyBundfacingbuilding.Severalweeksago,IhadthechancetogoagainwithmyfriendsMichelleandColin.Continuereading→Postedinfood,shanghai|Taggedrestaurant,shanghai,sushi|3CommentsLovewilltearusapartPostedonMarch31,2014byterenceLikemanyotherChineseAmericansofmygeneration,NewOrderwasanintegralpartofthesoundtracktomuchofmyjuniorhighandhighschooldays.Withcassettetapes(YES!)ofSubstance,TechniqueandLowLiferidingaroundinmyHondaAccord,thepostpunkelectronicsoundsoftheManchesterClubsceneblendedinwiththesuburbanLosAngeleslandscape.I’malittlebityoungerthanpeoplewhowould’velistenedtoJoyDivision–soIwasn’tasfamiliarwiththeJoyDivisioncatalog,untilIgotolder.AtmyfirstjobinHongKongoneofmyco-workerswouldwearatieeveryMay18thtomemorializeIanCurtis’suicide.SoIsoonpickedupsomeJoyDivisionknowledgeaswell,butitwasn’tquitethesameasNewOrdertome–IrealizeI’minadistinctminorityinthis.Continuereading→PostedinMusic,shanghai|Taggedconcert,JoyDivision,maolivehouse,shanghai|3CommentsChristmasinHongKongPostedonFebruary19,2014byterenceCatchinguponoldhappenings,Iwasn’tplanningtodoanythingforChristmas,justtakeacoupleofdaysoffandhangaroundinShanghai.ButmycubicleneighborwascomplainingaboutthepriceofhisticketstoHongKongoverChineseNewYear(5000RMB!)soIsuggestedflyingintothenewShenzhenairportandcrossingtheborderthere.Normally,overaweekend,thisisaterribleideaasthebordercrossingandbusridetakes90minuteseachwayandisn’treallythemostpleasantthingintheworld.Doingthesameovertheweekendjustisn’tagoodideaintermsofuseofone’stime.However,todosoovera4or5or10daytrip?Wellthesavingscanbeprettygood.IcheckedonpricesformycubeneighboranditturnsoutyoucangetfromShanghaitoShenzhenfor700RMB.Round-trip!Well,iftheyaregoingtobethatcheapforChineseNewYear,IhadtocheckforChristmas,sinceIhadthosetwodaysoff–andmovingtimesaroundtobeabitmoreconvenientanditcostabout1000RMBor$130bucks.SoIbookedatripdown.Itwaswonderful.Warm.NotalotoftimepressuretodowhatIwanted,asnormallyIhavetoforweekendtrips.IwentrunningonLantauIslandwithmyNBRteammateJoanne,aswellasanotherrunonBowenRoad.IexploreddifferentpartsofHKInormallydon’tgoto.IavoidedbigtouristspotsfilledwithMainlandtourists.TherunonLantauIslandwaskindoffunny.IhadmentionedtoJoannethatIwantedtoeatseafoodonanOutlyingIslandandshesuggestedtravelingTungChungonLantauIslandandthenhikingthe16kmovertoTaiOandstupidlyIsaid“16km?Whydon’twejustrunitinstead?”Sowemetintheformervillage,nownewtownofTungChung(neartheairportandontheTungChungMTRline)andsetononaruntowardsTaiO.About5kmin,werunintoPolicewhowarnusthatthere’saprotestgoingonandvillagershaveblockedoffthepathandwemightnotbeabletogoallthewaytoTaiO.Weshruggedandkeptongoing–Imean,whyturnbacknow,whenwecould’veturnedbackat8km?Well,itturnedoutthepolicewereright.Thepathwasblocked.Still,itturnedintoaniceramblingtrailrunonawarm,nearChristmasDay.VillageStoreWiththeairportinthebackgroundRunningPathRunningSelfiewithJoOnthewaytoTaiOBridgeJumpingFinishingtherunatTungChungIalsothrewanotherruninattheBowenRoadFitnessTrail,whichisstilloneofmyabsolutefavoriteplacestorunintheworld.Allofthisrunninghadapurposethough–IwastrainingforboththeHongKongHalfMarathonandmysnowboardingtripinJapan.whichI’llupdatethisblogaboutsoon.PostedinTravel|Taggedhongkong,naturalbornrunners,running,Travel|CommentsOffonChristmasinHongKongKoreanChickenWingsPostedonFebruary10,2014byterenceSomyfriendTiffandIhavebecomeobsessedwithKoreanFriedchickenfromthisplaceoutPASTGubei.It’sactuallyachainfromKoreancalledKyochon1991.Theymakefriedchicken.Koreansandfriedchicken?Yeah,it’sseriouslygood.YoucanseefrommylasttriptoSeoulthatIactuallyhadthefriedchickenwhilethere–thestreetsarefilledwithfriedchickenandbeerjoints.Kyochonisalargeinternationalchain(Malaysia,theUSandSingaporeallhavethem)andtheyhaveabranchoutwaydeepinthemiddleofKoreatowninShanghaionZitengRoad.Youcangettherevialine10onthesubway,gettingoutattheZitengRoadexitandthenwalkingupZitengRoadfor5minutes.Onceyougetthere,youneedtoputyournamedownforatable(eventhoughit’safastfoodsetting,yourmealisanythingbut).Usuallythewaithasbeenaround20-30minutes.Thenyoucanorder–theyhavethreeflavors–soysauce,spicyandhoney.Ilovelovelovethehoneywings.That’sallIeatnow.Ifoundthesoysauceslightlysalty.AndI’mnotverygoodwithspice.Thewingstakeanother30minutesandthenyoufeast!Ittakesabitoftimetogetoutthere,anditiscrowdedandclosestooearlyformytastes(10pm)–butit’sprettymuchaweeklytripnow.Kyochon1991ChineseListing182ZitengLu,nearWuzhongLu.NearLine10Postedinfood,shanghai|Taggedchicken,Korean,restaurant,shanghai|9Comments←OlderpostsSearchfor:ArchivesArchivesSelectMonthDecember2018January2017July2014June2014March2014February2014December2013October2013September2013August2013July2013June2013May2013April2013March2013February2013January2013December2012October2012September2012August2012July2012June2012May2012April2012March2012February2012January2012December2011November2011October2011September2011August2011July2011June2011May2011April2011March2011February2011January2011December2010November2010October2010September2010August2010July2010June2010May2010April2010March2010February2010January2010December2009November2009October2009September2009August2009July2009May2009April2009March2009February2009January2009December2008November2008October2008September2008August2008July2008June2008May2008April2008March2008February2008January2008December2007November2007October2007September2007August2007July2007June2007May2007April2007RecentCommentsWhiteRussiansandSoup|youusedtobealrightonMoskvauzbekceliaonBorschtandBakedRiceterenceonSichuanDay3:YELLOWDRAGONterenceonJiuzhaigouPartTwojesseonSichuanDay3:YELLOWDRAGONMehtaLoginEntriesRSSCommentsRSSWordPress.orgTagsadvertisingbasketballBeijingberkeleybicycleblogbuddiescaliforniacaliforniagoldenbearschinacommuteconcertcookingeatingexpofoodfootballfriendshaibaohalloweenholidayhongkongiphonejapanlosangelesmoviesMusicnaturalbornrunnersNBAnikephotopinkberryrestaurantrestaurantsrunningshanghaisingaporetaipeitaiwanThailandTravelUSAvacationvideovietnamworkpeople56minus1apgalbraithbryanwarsawdinglespeaksfishfacegavinmcwilliamsigetbucketsimagethiefJoyceylandourwaytofallphatinshanghaiportraitofanlaobaixingshanghaistreetstoriessushipandaTheBrianHopkinsProjectWeeLingSohwoaizhongguothingsireadadidasblogcaliforniagoldenblogschinasmackcoolhuntingdanweieastsouthnorthwestfreedarkojakenewbyJoyceylandlettersfromchina(walrusmagazine)nikeblogpeter'sphotoblogroughsundaysshanghaiistsuperfutureSubscriptionOptions:youusedtobealrightProudlypoweredbyWordPress.